Festive Blini Bites with Two Toppings

Method

1. Warm the milk in a small saucepan until it just starts to steam, then take it off the heat and stir in the sugar and butter, swirling until the butter has melted. In a bowl, mix the flours and yeast with 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Make a well in the center, pour in the warm milk mixture and the egg yolks, and whisk until you have a smooth batter. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest for 1 hour. (If you want to make the blinis ahead and freeze them, skip to step 4.)
2. While the batter rests, prepare the toppings. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the quail's eggs, and cook for 2 1/2 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water, then let them cool completely. In a food processor, combine the beetroot and cream cheese, season with a pinch of salt and a generous grind of black pepper, and blend to a purée. Transfer to a bowl and chill until serving.
3. For the salmon topping, flake the salmon into a bowl, add the cream cheese, lemon zest and juice, and horseradish if using. Mash everything together with a fork, then chill until ready. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the cucumber into long strips, discarding the seedy core, and place the strips in a bowl of cold water.
4. Check the blini batter—it should be bubbly on the surface. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Gently fold them into the batter, trying to keep as much air as possible.
5. Set up a wire rack or two for cooling the blinis (this prevents them from becoming soggy). Heat a knob of butter and a drizzle of oil in a large pan (if you have two pans, this will speed things up). When the butter is foaming, spoon tablespoons of the batter into the pan, leaving space between each one as they will spread a little. Cook over medium heat until bubbles pop on the surface and the undersides are golden brown. Flip and cook for 1-2 minutes more, then transfer to the rack to cool. Wipe out the pan and continue with the remaining batter. The cooked blinis can be stored in an airtight container for 1 day, or frozen on a baking tray covered with plastic wrap and then foil for up to a month. Thaw at room temperature before topping.
6. To assemble, top half the blinis with the beetroot purée. Peel and halve the quail's eggs, place them on top, scatter with cress, and season with a little black pepper. Top the remaining blinis with the salmon pâté. Dry the cucumber strips well, ruffle each piece back on itself, then press firmly between your fingers so it lies flat. Place on the salmon, add a tiny blob of caviar if using, and serve immediately, preferably with glasses of fizz!